GRAVES – PESSAC-LEOGNAN
By Aline Conus
Overall, I found this region disappointing, for both Whites and Reds. Most red wines had a dearth of mid-palate intensity and dry, unripe tannins.
Bahans Haut Brion (16)
Bright, floral, sweet fruit, chewy and very open now, this is quite long and attractive.
Carbonnieux Blanc (15½)
Bright, floral nose, good class mineral and citrus flavours, reasonable length.
Carbonnieux Rouge (15)
Good depth of flavour and mineral and ripe fruit character, tannins a bit dry.
Carmes Haut Brion (15)
Attractive concentrated black fruit, good, firm structure.
Domaine de Chevalier Blanc (15)
Bright citrus flavours with good weight and bright long fruit.
Domaine de Chevalier Rouge (16)
Lovely balance, elegant mineral and spicy fruit flavours, a long of charm.
Haut Bailly (15.5)
Elegant restrained minerality with plenty of fruit behind the tougher exterior. Classic Graves.
Haut Brion Blanc (17)
Full, rich character with lots of concentration and powerful in the middle – a great result, complex citric and flower aromas, and mineral on the finish.
Haut Brion Rouge (18)
A big mouthful of succulent fruit and good bright acidity, great structure, lovely black cherry, mocha, spicy character, nice intensity, with very firm tannins, quite masculine; very good indeed, but for me not at 2000 level.
La Mission Haut Brion (17)
Sweet fruit, good structure and lots of charm, complex flavours of violets and cherries – mineral spicy notes, but not a blockbuster. Good wine with more immediate appeal than its neighbour.
La Tour Haut Brion (16.5)
Open and appealing fruit, with good structure and firm tannins with a long, spicy finish; very good.
Pape Clement Rouge (15.5)
Big ripe flavours, sweet and good structure, typical of the vintage, but better mid-palate flavours.
By Aline Conus